DIY Chopsaw table

Material/Cut list:
8 @2x4x36" for the legs.
12 @ 2x4x22" for the side cross members and table supports.
6 @ 2x4x48" for the front and back cross members.
2 @ 2x8x33" for the saw support.
2 @ 1/2x24x48 for the table tops.
4 @ 1x4x48" for the fences.
2 48" T-tracks

Start by building the leg assemblies, each will use two 36" and two 22" 2x4s. With four leg assemblies built connect them with three 48" 2x4s. Use two on the top and a single on the bottom back side. If you want to put a shelf on these you can simple add an extra 48" 2x4 to the front and lay your shelf on top of that. At this point you should also put the tops on the tables.
You should now have two tables. Screw a 22" 2x4 to the opposite sides of each, so they both face each other when the tables are side by side. You'll need to do some math to figure out what height they should be for your saw to sit flush with the table tops.
Measure and drill holes in the 2x8s to match up with the holes in the base of the shopsaw. Install the boards into the slots on the table before adding the saw, or you'll have to try lifting an awkwardly large object to get it installed. Affix the saw to the boards with lagscrews. Screw the 2x8s to the tables to keep the saw from moving around, try to get this as squarely aligned to the tables as possible. Using spacers as needed to match the height with the table tops tighten down the saw.

Build the two fences by joining the 1x4s at a ninety degree angle. You should cut the channel for the T-Track before this, though there is no reason why you can't do it afterwards if you want. Install the T-track into the upright portion of the fence. Using scraps build triangular blocks to put on the backside of the fence to hold things square.

Using a level or long straight edge line the fences up with the chopsaw and screw them to the table.

Build a stop block and enjoy the time you'll save when you need to make several cuts at the same size as you'll only have to measure once.

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